Reviews

Gran Cerdo Spanish Tempranillo

Gran Cerdo's label really is a work
Posted 08th February 2013        
     

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Gran Cerdo’s label really is a work of art.

The demonic pig gorging on bank-notes really is an iconic image for our times.

I know you shouldn’t judge a wine by its label, just as you shouldn’t judge a book by the terrible adverts you see for it in train stations; but seeing this on the shelf in the Gourmet Pig, Fishguard, I had to pick it up and give it a go. And not just because it so pleasingly carried on the pig-theme from the shop’s name.

It’s a Spanish wine, and Spanish wines often offer great value for money, so it was a natural choice in one of the fancier wine-vending establishments in our locality.

The guy at the till told me to pay close attention to the label, and so I did.

This is what it says:

“… dedicated to the bank executives who denied loans to us on the basis that wine is not a seizable asset. One day these greasy and sweaty corporate suits will realise that the best things in life cannot be impounded.”

I loved it, and was therefore very relieved to find out that the wine itself was as characterful and enjoyable as that sentiment. It’s a really delicious modern Tempranillo (from the Rioja region, I believe) with full but not flabby fruit flavours dominating, and no notable oak layers to overpower the palate.

Its makers say it should be enjoyed with pork (for obvious reasons), and indeed the sweet and spicy paprika notes would compliment that meat excellently.

We had it with a (sort of Anglicized/Spanishified) chorizo-and-carrot bolognese, and even threw a cup of it in while the sauce was cooking. It went beautifully well, and wasn’t even too dry to be enjoyed with the chocolate crème brûlée we had for dessert – which ought to explain if not quite excuse the inclusion of the blowtorch in the snapshot up there.

If you fancy picking up a delicious and very reasonably priced modern Rioja, and sticking it to THE MAN while you do so, I can advise nothing more suitable for the purpose than Gran Cerdo.

It costs around £7.50. If you’re not near Fishguard – and let’s face it, most people aren’t – you’ll have to do your own detective work I’m afraid. Most online retailers seem to be selling a wine with the same name but a different label, which I can’t vouch for.

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Meet the Author:
Alexander Velky
Alexander grew up on Anglesey, almost as far away from civilization as he’d have liked. He studied English at university and subsequently moved to Prague to teach it to Czech people for just long enough that he could say he’d done that. He then returned to the UK to do an MA in Professional Writing, and later moved to London by accident and worked in the music industry for a while. His interest in wine has been developing throughout. He took the WSET Intermediate exam, for which he was rewarded with a certificate and a pin badge, but he probably won't bother doing any more. He now lives in Pembrokeshire with his wife and daughter. He writes, and drinks, for a living. You can follow him on Twitter if that's how you choose to spend your time. Photograph by Léonie Keeble